Is your concrete foundation cracked or leaking?

Most home-owners have encountered the frustrating problem of cracks in their foundation walls as well as the resulting stubborn water leaks that eventually find their way into your basement. Unfortunately, many foundation crack repair techniques deal solely with covering the cracks with hydraulic cement, epoxy or sealer. When moisture eventually loosens the water-soluble ingredients and expansion and contraction takes place, these quick fix solutions usually fail. We know that cracks will continue to move as warmer and colder weather causes continuous expansion and contraction of the structure.

There are two main kinds of foundation repair that we use; Polyurethane and Epoxy injection. Without getting to confounding here are the basic principles we follow.

Polyurethane Injection

• Flexible and allows for natural movement of the concrete due to thermal shrinkage and expansion.
• Can be used to repair wet or even leaking cracks, it repels water.
• Polyurethane crack injection expands over 20 times its volume.

Epoxy Injection

• Epoxy crack injection provides structural strength.
• Strength and bond with concrete greatly exceed the strength of the concrete itself.
• Only to dry surfaces, making the repair of a leaking or wet cracks impossible
• No expansion – a 1/4-inch crack needs four times more epoxy than a 1/16-inch crack.
• Epoxy Crack Filler provides the strongest repair, which will withstand traffic.

Maritime Crack Master specialized in the repair and reconstruction of foundation cracks .We know that in attempting to waterproof your basement the first priority is to properly repair your foundation. Just give us a call and our team of repair specialists will work with you to find the best and most cost-effective method to achieve a successful, long-lasting foundation repair.

“Waterproofing” is a broad term used to describe a range of services performed to fix a wet basement.

One of the most critical factors in basement waterproofing is to correctly identify the source of the leak. We accomplish this task by performing a site visit and consulting with the home-owner to determine where and when the problem occurs.

Foundation cracks and/or inoperative weeping tile systems are the most common causes of basement leakage.

Water which seeps into the basement at the base of the walls, at floor level, or through cracks in the floor, usually indicates that the weeping tile system is not working. Many homes in the area, constructed in the 1950’s-1960’s, have terracotta clay weeping tile, which over a period of years, can become plugged with clay or sand or crumble and collapse, preventing the water from being carried away from the house. Homes built prior to 1950 almost never have any weeping tile system at all.

Clay soil conditions are a hazard . Clay allows water saturation of soil, rather than drainage which is required in order for water to flow to a weeping tile system. Saturated clay will freeze and often, with the thaw in the Spring, will cause foundation cracks and poor drainage in window wells, resulting in back-ups and flooded basements.

Foundation construction materials have changed over the years. Materials used in the Saint John area include rubble stone, boulder stone, cinder block, concrete block and the current standard – poured concrete. Poured concrete walls, especially those in newer homes, are the most resistant to leakage; however, they too, often develop cracks that allow water to enter.

Concrete blocks and stones are quite porous, which can result in water seepage directly through foundation walls when the ground is saturated or the water table rises. Water can also seep through the porous mortar joints between bricks, stones or concrete blocks. In addition, the hollow cores of concrete blocks may eventually hold water, thus, when the water level within the blocks is higher than the basement floor, water seepage occurs.

Other common culprits include poorly positioned down spouts and missing, leaky or plugged gutters. Down spouts should direct water run-off from the roof to a discharge point several feet away from the house. A down spout that is improperly positioned to drain against the side of the house allows water to build up along the foundation wall, until the backed-up “reservoir” finds a weak spot to enter the basement. Gutters should be cleared of leaves and debris at least once a year. Basement leakage from either of these causes is usually restricted to one spot and disappears when the external problem is fixed.

Improper surface drainage is another common cause of basement leakage. In many cases, this can be alleviated simply by re-grading the yard to slope slightly away for the home’s foundation.

In many situations water infiltration may result because of a simple crack and can be remedied with Polyurethane injection . This creates a permanent repair under wet or dry conditions and is environmentally friendly.

When excavation of your foundation is required, Skikalastic 621tc rubberized membrane is required to stop all water leaks.

An interior french drain system is buried within the perimeter walls underneath the basement floor, during the construction of a new building.

This drain system consists of perforated plastic pipes that are placed through the footings to allow water to flow between the basement floor and the exterior perimeter drain system . For sites that have a very high water table, interior perforated plastic pipes are placed within the crushed stone, along the inside of the foundation footing (the entire basement wall structure) and connected to the pipes that discharge into the perimeter drain system. This method will cut hydrostatic pressure that can build during rainy seasons.

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For existing homes with a leaky basement, an interior drainage system is one of the most common you will see. This interior french drain system is created by sawing out a channel of concrete in the basement floor, at the base of the foundation wall, near the footing. Perforated pipe is put in the dug trench within the crushed stone (if any), If there is no crushed stone, filter fabric should be used around the pipe to prevent future clogging.

The trench is then filled over with concrete. The pipe drains to the basements low spot into a drainage basin where the sump pump will sit.  Once the water enters the internal French drain system, it’s directed to a sump pump, which discharges the water outside through a pipe that discharges the water downhill beyond the foundation, Some will run the sump pump drain pipe on the top of the yard, which could freeze, causing the water to back up in your basement. Proper installation would be for the pipe to discharge through the foundation wall and underground below the frost line, to a last low point away from the foundation. Annual maintenance of the sump pump, and the interior french drain system can be kept running smoothly, ensuring a dry basement all the time.

At the time of construction, consideration should be given to the last grading of a property, to make sure that the top of the foundation extends several inches above ground level.

While making landscaping improvements, homeowners likely will want to add hard surfaces (interlock, asphalt) and install planting beds for flowers and shrubs, altering the grade around the foundation. These alterations may create a way for water to seep through the brickwork or siding and flow over the top of the foundation wall.

Water woes could also lay ahead for properties situated lower than their neighbours as this scenario would let water to drain from their properties to yours.

Our estimator will likely recommend that the problem be fixed from the exterior. This is usually accomplished by lowering the grade and sloping it away from the house. It is a good practice to inspect your exterior cladding and windows annually for signs of deterioration or moisture infiltration.  

Ground water can build up along and underneath your basement structure. Installation of our home water drainage systems is crucial if you have leaks. Why take chances? 

If you have already lived through a flooded basement, then you know how much damage it can cause. Even an inch of water can take hours to clean up and can cause thousands of dollars in damage to your plumbing system, your foundation and your belongings. Installing a sump pump in your basement is your best defence to prevent flooding.

Essentially, as groundwater level rises it is diverted into a sump hole and when the water level reaches a ‘critical level’ the sump pump will begin to pump the water out through a pipe before the water level reaches the basement floor level. In the end a sump pump can save you thousands of dollars in the long run by protecting you from water damage.

Sump Pump Backups

Since a sump pump is generally hard-wired or plugged in, ideally, homes should have a battery backup in the event the electricity fails. At Maritime Crack Master we strongly suggest that it is better to be safe than sorry and recommend the installation of a battery driven backup to act in times of emergency. The backup runs on a battery charger that is kept topped up in case of a power outage. The battery charger will kick on when all power fails and power the backup sump pump. Remember to always test that the battery is still good before spring melt and fall rains. Installation of this type of secondary system will ensure a safe home.

As approved installers / applicators for Sika Canada we can offer clients permanent edge protection at shrinkage control joints and construction joints in concrete floors. Joint fillers are semi-rigid to allow some movement but can support traffic without deflecting under loads or have a plastic bond breaker in the middle. These systems are suitable for commercial / industrial supermarkets and warehouses and meet food hygiene and chemical resistance standards.

As approved installers / applicators for Sika Canada we can offer clients permanent edge protection at shrinkage control joints and construction joints in concrete floors. Joint fillers are semi-rigid to allow some movement but can support traffic without deflecting under loads or have a plastic bond breaker in the middle. These systems are suitable for commercial / industrial supermarkets and warehouses and meet food hygiene and chemical resistance standards.

High strength Sika structural mortars are a service we offer to repair broken / spalled areas of concrete where high performance and durability are required. Common areas this would be used are around weld plates and connection points where concrete has failed due to movement and stress.

Water often accumulates in window wells.

In situations where large amounts of water have accumulated, it can pour through the window and/or window frame into the basement.

Our estimator will recommend an exterior repair which includes excavation of the window well and installation of Platon Foundation Protector with clear stone backfill to create positive drainage to the weeping tile.

This is a good time to replace rusted or deformed window wells with a new corrugated well or a ScapeWEL®

Gas, water, sewer and electrical lines are common examples of the types of pipes which you will find penetrating your foundation wall from the exterior.

Typically, at the time of installation, these pipes are sealed with a patch from the interior and the exterior. These patches often fail with time, disintegrating or falling off, creating an easy entry point for water into your basement.

Our estimator will recommend an exterior repair which includes excavation, sealing the area with non-shrink grout and installation of Platon Foundation Protector with clear stone backfill to create positive drainage to the weeping tile.

The place where your floor and wall meet is called the ‘cove joint’.

When we have heavy rain for prolonged periods the weeping tile may not be able to handle the volume of water, resulting in a backup of ground water under the basement floor and along the foundation walls. This is called hydrostatic pressure.

Sealing the cove joint to stop the water from entering is not recommended as this would only force the water to follow a path of lesser resistance and it would find another entry into your basement.

Excavation and repair or replacement of the exterior weeping tile or installation of an interior drain tile system. The repair will be determined following investigation of many factors specific to your property.

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